Global Gourmet

The Rodney Dangerfield of Wine

Cleto Chiarli Sets the Standard in Emilia-Romagna

For decades, Lambrusco has been the butt of every conceivable wine joke. Snobs recoil in horror at the mere mention of the stuff, and snicker at the gauche individuals who feel compelled to drink it. This antagonism dates to the 1970s and 1980s, when Lambrusco was the most popular imported wine in America (we drank over 13 million cases of…