If you’re a sushi purist, you may not instantly warm to the idea of cooked lobster finding its way between seaweed and rice. But one bite of the baked lobster roll at the new seafood restaurant FISH (239-263-3474) in the Village on Venetian Bay, and you’ll see why we’re in love with it: The tender meat, piled high, has a nice caramelized coating from a miso-chive aioli that’s added before it is popped in the oven. The salty sweetness of the sauce makes this dish one of the best we’ve tasted all year, and we like that there is almost nothing traditional about it—slivers of romaine are mixed into the final assembly, and a trio of sauces decorate the plate and give flavor (besides the aioli there’s wasabi mayo and spicy mayo).
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