Designer Derek Lam, whose easy, feminine clothes combine formal and informal elements, and play with proportion, shared some thoughts with us during an appearance at Saks Fifth Avenue, Naples.
What fashion trend or style do you hope never returns?
Never say never. Designers and fashion can easily switch on a dime. But I think anything that’s too studied, too belabored—like people used to do bouffant hairdos, or I think a poodle skirt is pretty ridiculous.
What fashion mistake do you see women make?
I see it less and less, but not altering clothing properly is probably the biggest thing, and not looking at proportion. I think that’s the biggest mistake, spending money on something you really love, then not paying attention to the details and making it fit properly.
Which item of clothing or accessories can’t you live without?
Probably a black long-sleeve T-shirt, which is what I’m wearing now. It takes me from going on a plane, to coming to an event, and to go to dinner; it’s that great piece that carries me through the day.
How does your aesthetic influence your Resort and Spring 2014 lines?
I think it’s all about a subtle glamour. It’s about a woman who is very relaxed in her skin and wants to express fashion in a modern way; not traditional, yet she’s not out to be someone other than who she is.
What led you to choose these fabrics and colors?
Two things: There’s thinking about North African colors and inspiration, and then it goes a little bit more towards a tropical Africa, but done in a very modern way. Right now Africa is a continent that’s very intriguing, and fashion has always been inspired by that.
What should every woman have in her closet?
You can’t have enough beautiful white shirts. You’ll see it in this collection, just taking a classic white shirt and making it very sensual and interesting. I love that idea that it can be unisex, masculine-feminine.
Is there an era you think was great that influences your designs?
One of my favorite periods in fashion looking back … well there’s many. But the late ‘60s, before the whole development of the counter culture, where it was kind of couture meets sportswear. Balenciaga was doing that, where he was taking very formal shapes then seeing how the street adapts and wears it. I very much love that time period and it always informs my work. I think every designer has their period of time. And I always say it correlates to when they understood their mothers or parents with a fashion understanding.
Tell us about the Poetry by Derek Lam wine collaboration with Cliff Lede.
It was Cliff Lede reaching out. This is probably the preeminent small-scale winery in Napa, very well respected. He was just intrigued about bringing people from different walks of life to inspire. So I went in and did a blend of their very best wines. It was nice to see how it turned out and matured to the point where it was very satisfying.
How did you approach the packaging?
I wanted to create something timeless and modern. I see a lot of wine that’s overly decorated. I wanted something very straightforward and elegant, packaged so that you can keep it as something to appreciate years from now.
Do you think you would do it again?
If given the opportunity, yes, I would love to, now that I have the wine bug.
How does your aesthetic influence your Resort and Spring 2014 lines?
I think it’s all about a subtle glamour. It’s about a woman who is very relaxed in her skin and wants to express fashion in a modern way; not traditional, yet she’s not out to be someone other than who she is.
What led you to choose these fabrics and colors?
Two things: There’s thinking about North African colors and inspiration, and then it goes a little bit more towards a tropical Africa, but done in a very modern way. Right now Africa is a continent that’s very intriguing, and fashion has always been inspired by that.
Do you have a sense for which looks would be perfect for Naples women, who are rather elegant in a relaxed way?
From what I’ve heard, it’s a really great collection for them, because it’s about color and lightness, and [having] texture in two seasons in which that’s challenging, compared with fall and winter. And it’s fresh.
What inspired your latest looks?
It’s really thinking about how women live their lives, and women in Naples perhaps personify this idea of really loving fashion but adapting it to a lifestyle that’s not about traditional things, like balls or traditional events. It’s really about their lifestyles.
How do you describe your personal style?
The way I dress is simple. I like that kind of all-American style. I find how [the way] James Dean used to dress inspirational.
What should every woman have in her closet?
You can’t have enough beautiful white shirts. You’ll see it in this collection, just taking a classic white shirt and making it very sensual and interesting. I love that idea that it can be unisex, masculine-feminine.
Is there a past era that influences your designs?
There are many, but one of my favorite periods in fashion is the late ’60s, before the whole development of the counter culture, where it was kind of couture meets sportswear. Balenciaga was doing that, where he was taking very formal shapes then seeing how the street adapts and wears it.
How did the Poetry by Derek Lam wine collaboration with Cliff Lede came about?
It was Cliff Lede reaching out. This is probably the preeminent small-scale winery in Napa, very well respected. He was just intrigued about bringing people from different walks of life to inspire. So I went in and did a blend of their very best wines. It was nice to see how it turned out and matured to the point where it was very satisfying.
How did you approach the packaging?
I wanted to create something timeless and modern. I see a lot of wine that’s overly decorated. I wanted something very straightforward and elegant, packaged so that you can keep it as something to appreciate years from now.
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