According to Laura Reiley, food critic for The Tampa Bay Times, our deepest hunger is for the illusion that our food is organic and locally sourced, or farm-to-table in current parlance. That craving is being met frequently in our minds, but not quite as often in reality.
For the past several weeks, the food world has been buzzing over her series, “Farm to Fable,” that exposes many myths about the local produce, sustainable seafood and free-range poultry populating the menus of Tampa’s hottest restaurants. The series is an excellent piece of investigative reporting, the product of two months of scrupulous detective work. And lest we comfort ourselves with the thought that all this is occurring in a faraway place, the implicit point of Reiley’s muckraking is that it can happen anywhere.