I have been going to Las Vegas practically since birth, and after more than 60 visits, I have watched the city reinvent itself more times than Madonna. I remember when the Strip had a slightly seedy edge, when cheap all-you-can-eat buffets were part of the draw. Then came family-friendly Vegas, with Siegfried & Roy making white tigers disappear at The Mirage (RIP), followed by naughty Sin City and the viral “What Happens Here, Stays Here” campaign.
Today, Vegas seems to be having a bit of an identity crisis. Is it a luxury destination? A sports town? A foodie capital? A family vacation spot? A 24-hour nightclub? The answer is all the above. And that may be why my love affair with the city endures. Las Vegas will always be America’s playground: supersized, louder, more expensive, and more outrageous than practically anywhere else. Yes, it’s going to cost you. But you’re going to have fun.
Checking In
For South Floridians, Fontainebleau Las Vegas feels both familiar and completely colossal. Open since December 2023 at the north end of the Strip, the resort borrows plenty of DNA from its Miami Beach sister, right down to the signature bow tie motif. My room was enormous, with floor-to-ceiling windows, sleek furnishings, a gleaming bathroom, and a gold toothbrush waiting in case I had forgotten mine. The view of the Sphere glowing in the distance was pure only-in-Vegas theater.
Miami follows you into the restaurants, too, with such familiar names as Papi Steak, Komodo, KYU, Miami Slice, and El Bagel. The party continues at LIV and LIV Beach, where Fontainebleau has gone all in on DJ culture with regular sets by John Summit and Tiësto. On a 110-degree afternoon, I planted myself in a cabana and barely left the pool, fortified by misters, fans, and icy rosé. “But it’s a dry heat,” everyone keeps telling me. Like that helps.
I also remain loyal to The Venetian for its central location and Bellagio for that rare Vegas combination of elegance, convenience, and nostalgia. The fountains and ever-changing conservatory get me every time.
Show and Tell
At Area 15, it’s evident that modern Vegas is about much more than gambling. Just minutes from the Strip, this immersive entertainment district appeals to families and adults alike, with attractions ranging from Meow Wolf’s Omega Mart and the John Wick Experience to Universal Horror Unleashed and the Museum of Ice Cream.
Omega Mart is one of the strangest, smartest experiences in town. You enter what looks like an alternate-universe supermarket, then start opening freezer doors and wandering through portals into secret rooms, tunnels, and surreal worlds. There is a mystery to solve if you’re ambitious. I was perfectly happy getting lost.
The Museum of Ice Cream is Vegas excess dipped in pink: unlimited ice cream, the world’s largest sprinkle pool, five slides, adult cocktails, and an ice cream–themed wedding chapel. It’s gloriously over-the-top and pure whimsy.
Formula 1 fans should race over to Grand Prix Plaza, where a 22-turn course puts you behind the wheel of electric karts with F1-inspired technology. There’s also the F1 Experience, where you can explore the history and innovation of racing through iconic cars, interactive exhibits, and behind-the-scenes engineering.
For a calmer, more cultural moment, Arte Museum is a blissfully air-conditioned escape where monumental digital installations—from cascading waterfalls and fields of flowers to an undulating whale—are paired with sensory elements including trippy music and bespoke scents.
No trip to Las Vegas is complete without a visit to the Sphere, whether it’s for bands like the Backstreet Boys or The Wizard of Oz at Sphere, which reimagines the 1939 classic across the venue’s wraparound interior, with 4D effects dropping you right into Oz.
Then there is O. I saw the Cirque du Soleil production not long after it opened at Bellagio and wondered whether it still held up 27 years later. It does—and then some. The show’s 1.5-million-gallon pool appears and disappears beneath acrobats, artistic swimmers, and divers with a fluidity that feels magical.
High-Roller Dining
Vegas demands at least one steak house per visit, and Don’s Prime at Fontainebleau delivers old-school swagger with modern polish. Named for Don Soffer, the visionary developer who helped shape Aventura, it serves LaFrieda USDA Prime cuts from a 9-ounce filet mignon up to a 48-ounce tomahawk. For pescatarians, the lobster mac and cheese is loaded with Maine lobster. Come hungry.
Lago at Bellagio is all about location. Yes, the Italian food is delicious, but when you’re seated lakeside with the fountains erupting right in front of you every 15 minutes, the pasta becomes a supporting player. Book a table on the terrace for the view—and your Instagram feed.
My favorite meal was at Wakuda. This upscale Tokyo-inspired restaurant from Michelin-starred chef Tetsuya Wakuda serves pristine sushi and sashimi, grilled king crab, and a king salmon truffle sashimi so delicate and divine I ordered it twice. Wash it all down with an impressive Iwa sake flight or premium Japanese whisky.
For lunch between attractions, Amaya at The Cosmopolitan features rustic coastal Mexican flavors conveniently close to Arte Museum. Kaia at Area 15 is eclectic and playful, especially its sushi roulette, where one lucky—or unlucky—diner gets a mouthful of wasabi and a prize.
Coming Soon
There’s never a bad time to visit Vegas, but the next few months boast some serious headliners. Formula 1 takes over the Strip November 19-21, followed by the National Finals Rodeo December 3-12, which celebrates cowboy culture. The Eagles return to the Sphere through December 12, while Metallica continues its run into 2027. Tim McGraw brings a five-night engagement to The Colosseum at Caesars Palace October 23 to November 7, Olivia Rodrigo hits T-Mobile Arena December 19-20, and Tiësto rings in 2027 at LIV. Then, on January 25, the College Football Playoff National Championship lands at Allegiant Stadium.
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