Chef Rajkumar “Raj” Holuss has logged many miles and milestones since leaving the island nation of Mauritius off the coast of East Africa, where he grew up on a farm with five siblings and attended culinary school. At 23, he left to further his career in Great Britain, New York, and France, working at Michelin-starred restaurants under acclaimed chefs, including Alain Ducasse, Michel Roux Jr., and Alain Roux. In September 2023, he moved to Naples to become the head chef at Sails Restaurant. NI recently had a chance to learn more about his kitchen philosophy.
NI: What brought you to Naples?
Holuss: I was in the [United Kingdom] looking for a new opening when the position came up on a website. A mutual acquaintance introduced me to the owners [Veljko Pavicevic and Corinne Ryan]. Mr. Veljko invited me to visit for a week. I’d never been to Naples, but on my first night here, I loved it. It feels like I’m back home.
What’s different about working in Naples versus Great Britain?
There is not much difference when it comes to the job, but I’ve found the local produce to be very good and the fish we receive every day or every other day to be very sustainable and fresh. [This availability] helps me to create new dishes using local ingredients.
Where do you get your ideas?
I think it’s about experience. When I receive a beautiful cauliflower, I ask myself, “What can I do with it?” I recently saw beautiful peaches, so I made a sorbet, then soup, and then did peaches and Champagne, a bellini. It’s a good palate cleanser between courses and people love it.
What has inspired you?
When local strawberries and local tomatoes were in season, I was inspired to make a strawberry and tomato gazpacho. The berries bring a little sweetness to the soup. It’s quite popular among vegan and vegetarian diners.
Did you bring any favorite recipes with you?
I make a goat cheese soufflé for brunch. It’s my own creation. It’s very smooth and light. The oxtail ravioli is very popular. The center has an egg yolk so when you cut the ravioli, you have the yolk running through it like a sauce.
Do you incorporate any influences from Mauritius into what you serve here?
I always try to stay on track. You can lose yourself. Sails has a concept of Mediterranean seafood and not producing Asian or South Indian flavors. We might do it with a chef’s special, such as fried calamari with a roasted garlic sauce or whole dorade with pipérade.
What do you enjoy doing in your time off?
I work a lot, but I manage to see my wife and [two] children every day. I like cycling and swimming at the seaside. In the United Kingdom, you had to drive three hours to the seaside. And there was a lot of rain. Here, I can cycle [to the beach]. In Mauritius, it was five minutes to the seaside, too. That’s why I feel more comfortable here.
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