I worry, sometimes, when a favorite intimate restaurant undergoes a growth spurt. Like at others, the dedicated clientele at Petar’s Restaurant in Bonita Springs had outgrown its circa-2015 skinny strip-mall space of 40 seats huddled around an open kitchen. Owner-chef Petar Al Kurdi and wife Ana, Ritz-Carlton alumni, had made the inevitable COVID alfresco expansion, but they still were turning away customers regularly.
So, last year, they knocked down a wall and opened for season with 150 seats and a full bar. From slightly cramped to bright and airy, the feel has changed for the better, and its growth has not affected its deeply satisfying flavors. Deep, as in an orchestral explosion of complexity; it registers on the eyes, then the palate, and embeds in the memory. Take the crab gazpacho. Watermelon refreshes chilled tomato puree, while blue crab brings saltiness to the party. Fresh veggies and herb sprouts add a whole other dimension of crunch and freshness.
My friend and I ordered from Petar’s greatest hits. As we looked around, nearly every table held a telltale rectangular crock overflowing with the chef’s signature lasagna. Classic in composition, the house-made al dente pasta and wow of Wagyu Bolognese lift the dish into a class of its own. However, once I tasted my Special from the Sea, I was smitten. Al Kurdi, busily cooking away within eyeshot, offered two fish du jour with a choice of three preparations. I picked the Costa Rican triple tail, pan-fried with simplicity and seared-in juices. But honestly, its foundation of grilled corn and bacon salsa upstaged it. Corn puree added creaminess to the texture and salty accents. Then, there was the je ne sais quoi that set a tangy spark to the entire works.
Never have I considered dessert to play second fiddle, and the key lime crème brûlée and apple cinnamon crepe were phenomenal. But, oh, that corn salsa!
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